Vitello Tonnato: A Journey from Tradition to Modernity

Rediscovering a Classic

Vitello tonnato is a dish that has always fascinated me. Originating from the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, it’s a perfect example of how simple ingredients can come together to create something truly special. The combination of tender veal and a rich, flavorful tuna sauce might sound unconventional to some, but for those who’ve tried it, it’s a revelation.

I first learned how to make vitello tonnato over 25 years ago while studying at a hotel school in Stresa, located in the heart of Piedmont. It was during this time that I truly began to appreciate the art of Italian cuisine and the significance of traditional recipes like this one. Learning the ancient recipe from local chefs who were deeply rooted in the region’s culinary traditions was a formative experience for me, and it’s a dish that has stayed with me throughout my career.

The Traditional Approach

Traditionally, vitello tonnato has been a beloved part of Italian cuisine since the 19th century. The classic method often involved roasting the veal slowly to retain its tenderness. After roasting, the veal was thinly sliced and served cold, covered in a rich sauce made from fresh tuna, which was poached or cooked and then blended with capers, anchovies, and sometimes egg yolks or olive oil.

This method of preparation ensured that the tuna sauce was deeply flavorful and well-balanced, perfectly complementing the roasted veal. Over time, the recipe evolved to include mayonnaise, but the essence of the dish remains rooted in this traditional approach.

Traditional Ingredients:

• 1 kg veal roast
• 1 carrot, chopped
• 1 onion, chopped
• 1 celery stalk, chopped
• 1 cup white wine
• 1 bay leaf
• 200 g fresh tuna
• 2 tbsp capers
• 4 anchovy fillets
• Olive oil or egg yolks (optional)
• Lemon juice (optional)

Traditional Preparation:

1. Roasting the Veal: Season the veal roast with salt and pepper, and roast it slowly in the oven at a low temperature until tender, typically for 2 to 3 hours. Let it cool completely before slicing.
2. Making the Sauce: Poach the fresh tuna in a mixture of white wine and water until cooked through. Once cooled, blend the tuna with capers, anchovy fillets, and olive oil or egg yolks to create a smooth, rich sauce. Add lemon juice if desired.
3. Serving: Thinly slice the cooled veal and arrange it on a platter. Generously cover the veal slices with the tuna sauce, then refrigerate the dish until it is well-chilled and the flavors have melded together.

My Modern Take: The Sous-Vide Approach

As someone who loves to explore the possibilities of modern cooking techniques, I’ve developed a particular fondness for preparing vitello tonnato using the sous-vide method. The precision that sous-vide offers ensures that the veal is cooked to perfection every time, resulting in an incredibly tender texture that’s difficult to achieve with traditional methods.

This modern approach not only enhances the texture of the veal but also allows for more control over the flavors. I like to add a touch of lemon zest and Dijon mustard to the tuna sauce, giving it a fresh, vibrant kick that complements the richness of the dish.

Modern Adaptation Ingredients:

• 1 kg veal roast, prepared sous-vide
• 200 g high-quality preserved tuna
• 1 cup light mayonnaise
• 2 tbsp capers
• 4 anchovy fillets
• Lemon zest
• 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
• Fresh herbs and caper berries for garnish

Modern Preparation:

1. Sous-Vide Cooking: Season the veal with salt, pepper, and a touch of olive oil. Vacuum-seal and cook sous-vide at 62°C (142°F) for 2 hours. After cooking, sear the veal briefly in a hot pan to develop a light crust, then let it cool completely.
2. Modern Sauce: In a blender, combine the high-quality preserved tuna, light mayonnaise, capers, anchovy fillets, lemon zest, and Dijon mustard. Blend until smooth, adjusting the seasoning to taste.
3. Plating: Slice the veal thinly and arrange it artfully on the plate. Drizzle the sauce over the veal, and garnish with fresh herbs and caper berries for an elegant presentation.

Tip: If you want to elevate the dish further, you can prepare your own preserved tuna at home using one of these methods:

• Steam or Boil Method: Steam or boil fresh tuna fillets until cooked through. After cooking, submerge the tuna in olive oil, adding a few aromatics like garlic, bay leaves, and peppercorns for extra flavor. Let it sit for a few hours or overnight to allow the flavors to meld before using it in your sauce. This method offers a cleaner taste with a rich finish.
• Poaching in Olive Oil: Alternatively, you can poach fresh tuna directly in olive oil over low heat with aromatics. This method infuses the tuna with a deeper, more pronounced flavor and a silky texture. Once poached, allow the tuna to cool in the oil before using it in your sauce.

Food Safety Note:
This homemade tuna in oil is meant for short-term use only and should be stored in the fridge. It is not intended for long-term preservation. For safety, always use fully cooked fish, keep it refrigerated, and do not store at room temperature to avoid any risk of botulism.

Why I Prefer the Modern Version

While I deeply respect the traditional method, the sous-vide approach aligns more with my culinary philosophy. It’s about taking a classic dish and refining it, using modern techniques to elevate the flavors and textures. The result is a dish that feels both timeless and contemporary, bridging the gap between tradition and innovation.

For me, this modern version of vitello tonnato captures the essence of the original while adding a new dimension that speaks to today’s culinary landscape. It’s a dish I love to share with others, not just because of its history, but because of the way it continues to evolve and inspire.

Conclusion

Vitello tonnato is more than just a dish; it’s a journey through time, from its classic origins to the innovative interpretations we see today. Whether you prefer the traditional recipe or, like me, enjoy experimenting with modern techniques, vitello tonnato offers a delicious slice of Italian culinary history, adapted to our modern tastes.

I’d love to hear your thoughts! Have you tried making vitello tonnato at home? Do you prefer the classic approach, or are you excited to experiment with a modern twist? Share your experiences and comments below

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